Mandalay
is the second largest city (after
Yangon), and a former capital of
Myanmar.
The city is the economic and religious hub of upper Myanmar. The city
is centred around the Royal Palace, and has wide lanes filled with
bicycles and motorcycles. Mandalay is known for its millionaires, its
monks (half of the country's monks reside in Mandalay and surrounding
areas), and its cultural diversity.
History
Mandalay, the very name evokes the splendors of the Burma of old. But,
most people will be surprised to learn that Mandalay is not an old city,
not even a medieval one, but rather a new city that was created by King
Mingdon Min of Burma in 1857 as the new capital of the kingdom of Ava.
Only two Burmese kings ruled from there, King Mingdon and King Thibaw,
before the British conquest of Upper Burma in 1885. It was a city of
splendor between 1858 and 1885 but most of the magnificence is gone,
destroyed by the fire that consumes wooden structures and by intensive
bombing by the Allies during the Second World War. The city, neatly
planned with its lettered roads and numbered streets, is a British
creation. The once magnificent Royal Palace and the great Atumashi
(incomparable) pagoda, King Mingdon Min's finest creations, are modern
reconstructions supervised by the ruling Military junta with the help of
forced labour. Today, Mandalay lies at the end of the Lashio Road and
it is, by Burmese standards, relatively prosperous as a centre for trade
with China and as a centre for the growing trade with India. Despite
the capital having been moved to Naypyidaw, Mandalay remains by far the main commerical centre of Upper Myanmar.
People
Mandalay is ethnically diverse, with the Bamar (Burmans) forming a
slight majority. In recent years, there has been a major influx of
Chinese from Mainland China, and the local Chinese (both recent migrants
and descendants of colonial-era immigrants) form 30 to 40% of the
population. Their influence is seen in the China-style glass buildings
throughout the city, while the Yunnan dialect of Mandarin is often
spoken among the ethnic Chinese community. Other prevalent ethnic groups
include the Shan, who are ethnically and linguistically related to the
Thais and Laotians, and the Karen (Kayin). There is a sizable ethnic
Indian population, including Nepalis and Sikhs.
Climate
Mandalay has a semi-tropical climate. Winter (which is dry and cold)
lasts from November to February, and summer lasts from March to May.
Because Mandalay is in the central dry zone, it receives far less rain
than the more tropical south.
By plane
Mandalay International Airport, a gleaming modern facility, serves
the area with flights to most places in Myanmar and some international
flights. Air Mandalay used to provide a service, twice a week, flying
from
Chiang Mai,
Thailand,
however, it was suspended in 2008 and, whilst rumours persist, the
service has not yet restarted. There are also 3 flights weekly to and
from
Kunming on MU2029 for about RMB2000 one way.
Air Asia is starting a direct flight from Bangkok, from 04th October 2012 onward with 4 flights per week.
The airport is far from the city, 45km on a modern highway (with a
few hiccups). Expect to pay US$8 to central Mandalay, US$6 from central
Mandalay, and US$30 to/from
Pyin U Lwin.
By train
From Yangon There are several trains daily from Yangon. While
the tracks are old and, in some cases, the carriages may be old, the
fifteen hour journey is quite pleasant. Note that in Fall of 2006 all
trains were rescheduled to travel during the day (so that trains do not
cross Pyinmana in the dark) but at least one train (the privately
managed Dagon Mann Express) now runs overnight. Fares range from about
US$15 (ordinary class/hard seat) to US$50 (Air Conditioned Sleeper on
the Dagon Mann Express).
From Lashio, Hsipaw, and Pwin U Lwin There are two trains
daily from Pyin U Lwin (US$4/$2) and one from Lashio via Hsipaw and Pwin
U Lwin (US$9/3 from Hsipaw). These trains are slow, crowded, but
fascinating. The Pyin U Lwin - Hsipaw section includes the famous
Gokteik Viaduct, a feat of Raj ingenuity (and American construction!).
From Myitkyina This twenty-four hour journey is on old rolling stock and even older tracks so expect it to be bumpy!
By bus
From Yangon There is a night bus with air-con (there are 5
options, 5PM, 6PM, 7PM, 9PM and 930PM departure, 10400k, 8.5-9 hours)
running into Mandalay. Almost certainly the cheapest option for getting
between the two main cities in Myanmar.
From Inle Lake, Kalaw or Mid-Eastern Towns
There are buses available along this route, either a day minibus (5AM
departure, 9000k, 9 hours) or a night bus with air-con (6PM departure).
The minibus in the day takes a slightly shorter route than the larger
(and some say more comfortable) full-sized night bus. Expect windy and
bumpy roads, stops for picking up and putting down passengers, and, if
you are lucky, a search of the bus by un-uniformed and just-bribed
police officers.
From the Highway Bus Station you can either take a taxi or pick-up into town. Taxis are overly expensive (quoting prices as high as 2000k
per person
or 6000k for the car), and often bargain in a mob fashion (except they
all offer the same price and try and gang-up on you). A far cheaper
option is to simply walk out of the bus station yards to the West, and
find one of the pick-ups which just ran a load of people to the station
from town (500k per person) - they are normally more than happy to help
and there is no commission issues to worry about.
Get around
Taxis are relatively inexpensive and are excellent for travelling around Mandalay, though they do not have Aircon.
Many sights are centered around Mandalay Hill, which makes foot-walking feasible in that area.
The best and cheapest way to see the city is by bicycle, as traffic isn't as heavy as in other Asian cities.
Renting a motorcycle can be a dangerous exercise in Mandalay
since the driving can be hectic but it is a great way to see the city if
you are an experienced rider. Some hotels on 25th street(near
zeycho)rent bikes and there is an American expat in downtown who rents
dirtbikes and motorbikes that can be dropped of at your hotel
mandalaymotorbike@gmail.com
Mobile:(09-2014265)
Trishaws(cycle rickshaws)are a convenient way of getting around
in Mandalay, and if you find a driver who speaks good English you can
have a tour guide and transport together for a reasonable price with a
little bargaining. They only hold one or two(back to back) people
though.
See
Religious sites
- Maha Myat Muni Paya (Burmese: ma-ha myah mu-ni pei-ya) [2]
is Myanmar's second holiest pilgrimage site. It is a 4-metre high
Buddha statue, made of gold and decorated with precious jewels. The
image was brought from Rakhine State, southeast of Mandalay.
- Shwe Kyi Myin Paya (Burmese: shui ji myin pei-ya) was built in the 1st century, by Prince Min Shin Saw.
- Sandamuni Paya (Burmese: san-da-mu-ni pei-ya),
located at the foot of Mandalay Hill, is similar to Kuthodaw Paya, an
adjacent site. Sandamuni contains the world's largest iron Buddha image.
- Kuthodaw Paya (Burmese: ku-tho-dau pei-ya) is
site of the world's largest book, located at the foot of Mandalay Hill.
Built by King Mingdon in the 1800s, 729 white stupas within the complex
contain the complete text of the Tripitaka, Theravada Buddhism's most
sacred text.
- Shwenandaw Monastery is a monastery made entire out of
teak wood with beautiful intricate carvings. It was originally part of
the royal palace built by King Mindon and moved to its current location
by his son, King Thibaw in the late 19th century. It is the only major
building from the original wooden royal palace to have survived the
bombing during World War II, and thus is the only authentic part of the
royal palace which can still be seen today.
- Mandalay Hill (Burmese: man-da-lei thaonh) is a
230-metre hill located near Mandalay. Along its path are several
monasteries and temples. At its top are famous pagodas and temples.
Beautiful at sunset and many monks also make the trip up for sunset to
practice their English with foreigners.
Miscellaneous sites
- Royal Palace (Burmese: man-da-lei nan-dau) is a
walled city within Mandalay. It was built in 1861 by King Mindon, to
fulfill a prophecy. The palace, although destroyed in World War II, was
rebuilt, and was renovated recently. It was renovated using forced
labour, and locals may advise you not to visit the place. In addition,
while the design of the reconstruction was fairly faithful to the
original, the materials used were not (metal was use instead of the
original teak wood). The palace contains several pavilions and chambers.
Tourists are required to enter from the East Gate. An almost kilometre
walk connects the entry gate to the palace proper. Replicas of throne
rooms and chairs and Madame Tussaud style images of Kings Mindon and
Thibaw with their chief consorts are on display.
- At the west end is the Palace Museum where all palace
memorabilia is on display including religious paraphernalia, court
ritual implements, court dresses and uniforms, furnitures, palanquins
and litters, as well as armoury - all in their typical intricate Myanmar
design and execution. There are also photo exhibits.
Do
- Mandalay Hill In the old days you had to climb Mandalay
Hill on foot, a long and gruelling journey. Nowadays visitors can take a
shared pick-up for a handfull of kyats and hang on to their dear lives
(downhill is even scarier). The pick-ups leave every twenty minutes and
bring you to the foot of the hill pagoda, where an entry fee of US$3 is
collected and footwear is prohibited. However if you do take the many
stairs up, you bypass the entry fee. A camera fee of 500 kyat is
collected at the very top. The pagoda offers nice views of Mandalay and
the surrounding plains. One can also rent a private pick-up for 5000
Kyat or so, a more comfortable option since the shared pick-ups can be
very crowded.
- Moustache Brothers, (any bicycle rickshaw), [3]. A
comedy trio who have served a total of 12 years in prison for their
political (anti-government) performances and jokes. They are only
allowed to perform from their home, for tourists. They perform every
night, cost 8000 kyat, which goes towards helping political prisoners.
Bicycle rickshaw drivers will undoubtedly approach you to strike a
return pedal deal. The show lasts for about 1,5 hours and mostly
features Burmese dance and some political jokes. K8000. edit
- Waterfall Hill (Yaedagon Taung) is located on the east
side of Mandaly, where you can have outdoor sports. Especially caving
and rock climbing is the most favourite one since it is not spoiled, nor
crowded and not far from the city.
- Mahamuni Paya. Visit
at around 4.30-5.00a.m for the amazing ceremony of washing the buddha's
face, which occurs every day and is attended by hundreds of people. edit
- Motorcycle Tour of Mandalay Outskirts. Many
(if not all) motorcycle drivers can take you on the tour of the three
main tourist draw villages surrounding Mandalay. Amarapura boasts the U
Bien Bridge, the famous 1.2 km. teak bridge which is a popular sunset
stop. Sagaing offers the chance to climb to Sagaing hilltop, dotted
with gleaming golden and enormous payas, one of which can be reached by
300+ steps and offering a 360-degree view of and overlooking the
Irrawady River. The town of Old Ava (also called Innwa) is usually
reached by boat (2000 kyat round trip). Horse carts greet you on the
other side and charge 6000 kyat to take you around to the main sites.
Or alternatively, you can pay your motorcycle driver an extra 4000 kyat
to tour you around (skipping the boat crossing and horse cart). The
horse cart tour usually consists of three main attractions - the
antiquated looking teak monastery Bagaya Kyuang (you cannot escape the
$10 Mandalay ticket here), Nanmyin Palace Watchtower (the leaning tower
of Ava), 27m high, and Mahar Aung Mye Bonzan Monastery. There are two
other extra attractions - the ruined former palace gate and another
unknown small scaled brick temple complex - a group of stupas and
temples that serves as teaser for what's to come in Bagan. This temple
is not signed, but there are two or three souvenir stalls set up at the
entrance path, an indication that this is popular with tourists. The
whole motorcycle tour costs 12,000 kyats (16,000 if you pay your driver
to skip the boat and horse cart, saving you some kyats).(Mar.'12)
- Watch Puppet Show @ Mandalay Marionettes Theatre, 66th St., Bet. 26th & 27th St., ☎ +95 (0) 234446, [4]. . This is a hard to find show, not even in Yangon. Here, they are featured as a regular show.
- Watch Classical Dance @ Mintha Theatre, 27th St., Bet. 65th & 66th St., ☎ 09-6803607, [5]. 8:30 pm, daily. Classical court and folkloric dances that include a full 8-piece traditional orchestra 8000 kyats.
- The
boat to the village of Mingun departs at 9am and returns at 1pm (5000
kyat round trip). It takes about one hour there and 45 minutes back,
giving you three hours to explore. You can climb the Mingun Paya for
views of the village and across the river - its best to do this before
it gets too hot. You are technically supposed to purchase the $3
Mingun/Amarapura ticket (going to the government) but tickets are only
checked (sometimes) on the stairs to the top - make it look like you
have bought a ticket by loitering in front of the ticket office to the
right of the stairs. Or just start climbing and see if they check you
(though if you come straight to the stairs from the boat they probably
will). Other sites include the world's largest uncracked bell and
Hsinbyume Paya, the white pagoda you can see from the top of Mingun
Paya.
Buy
- Zegyo Market (Burmese: zei-gyo) is a collection of bazaar street markets located near the city centre.
Eat
Mandalay, both due to its history as a former capital of Myanmar, and
its position as a major trading centre between Myanmar and it's
neighbours in China, India and Bangladesh has a notable array of
specialties both from various regions within Myanmar as well as from
other countries. Cuisine from the Shan State (usually including
fermented pastes, vegetables, and meats) is popular in Mandalay which
has a notable Shan minority. Muslim Chinese noodles, pronounced pan-THEI-kao-sweh
(flat thin noodles mixed with an array of spices, chili, and chicken),
are also famous in Mandalay and the surrounding hills. Regardless of
where you eat, try and leave space for Htou moun(to-moh), a traditional Burmese dessert sold only in Mandalay. Beware, it contains a lot of oil and is extremely sweet.
- Mann Restaurant, 83rd Street (Between 25th & 26th Streets). A
Chinese restaurant, frequented by locals, but not so much by
foreigners. Has a number of basic Chinese meals, at around 2000k a
plate. Easily recognised from the street by the abundant yellow and
black advertising for a local whisky brand. (They do sell beer and
alcohol here too, Myanmar Beer at 1500k a bottle compared to 2000k in
Yangon.)
- Too Too Myanmar Cuisine, 28th Street (Between 74th & 75th Streets). Supposedly has the best Burmese food in whole Mandalay.
- Street Pancakes (Indian roti), 81st & 26th (enter unmarked alley going west, next to Myawaddy Bank). In
the southwest block of 81st & 26th streets, enter the unmarked
alley besides the Myawaddy Bank during the afternoon to find a pleasant
indian lady making savoury and sweet street pancakes in a cast iron
frying pan in front of her house. Cheap, delicious, and pleasant
company.
- Nepali Food, 81st St, between 26 and 27. Simple and delicious chapatis served with three curries (1500-2000 kyat)
- Nylon Ice Cream Bar, The corner of 83 and 25. Serves a variety of ice creams from chocolate to durian - delicious and surprisingly cheap (300 kyat and up)
-
Drink
- V Cafe, No. 408, Corner of 80th & 25th street (Very near Royal guest house), ☎ 09-6804928.. Definitely
belonging to the cool cafe at Mandalay with good food, very friendly
and attentive service at fair price. A nice escape out of furious street
and dreary from a tiring day. 5/10 USD. 5-10 USD.
-
- Shwe Gokai, 35th street (between 68th and 67th streets) (North side of 35th street a few shops west of 68th street). This
is a Chinese BBQ restaurant famous for it's BBQ beef tongue and rice
noodle soup (ba ba si). There is no english sign but it is easy enough
to find as it is the only BBQ restaurant on the Noth side of 35th
street. It is next to a pottery store with many clay pots in front.
- Golden Coffee Shop, No. 80/4, 35th street Between 88th and 89th streets. Free
Wi-Fi. Decently priced fruit shakes and coffees and a good array of
snacks on display. Friendly staff try their best with English but best
take a phrasebook if you want to do more than point at pictures on
menus. 500-2000 kyat for drinks Similar for food/snacks
Sleep
Mandalay has several tourist-friendly accommodations. Many hotels face the Royal Palace.
Budget
Most budget guesthouses are located around 25th Street, between 81st
and 84th Streets. There are many more than those listed here.
- Sabai Phyu Hotel, 81st and 25/26th Street, ☎ 39997. checkout: 12:00. Despite
the semi-squalid, cell-like rooms, due to the overpricing in Mandalay,
this is probably the best bet in the area. Free drinking water.
Breakfast for $1. Some of the best water pressure in Burma. Very
friendly staff. US$10/20/25.
- dawya Sintada Steet, Chan Aye Thar San Township (East of the Eindawya Pagoda), ☎ 02-34505/09-6502430. Great
place to stay! Central location in the heart of Zeygo market. Rooftop
is something special. Rooms are tacky and bathrooms dated but the price
is right. $15USD Double rate as of March 4 2012 10/15US$.
- Peacock Lodge, 5 61st St., Mandalay, ☎ +95-2-33411. Terrific homestay B&B, with very friendly family staff. A little bit out of the centre, also has a bike rental. US$20.
- Rich Queen, 87th Street, Bet: 26th&27th Streets, ☎ 02-260172, 0991028348. Place is very new and has a flash backpacker feel to it. Has modern facilities including the bathrooms. All rooms have air con. 15 USD Single, 25 USD Double.
- Royal Guesthouse, No. 41 25th Street (Between 82nd & 83rd Streets, Southern side.), ☎ 0265697. checkout: 12 Midday. Popular,
Lonely Planet "Our Pick". This place does fill up pretty quickly, so if
you want to be sure - place a reservation before arriving in Mandalay.
Cheaper rooms have fan and shared bathroom (Double rate as of August
15th 2012 US$14, single rate $9) - more expensive have aircon and
attached bathroom (Double rate as of August 15th 2012 US$19). The aircon
is on the government grid and so will go down during (common)
blackouts. Friendly staff, and close to the Royal Palace. Bike rental
(1500k per day, negotiable) available across the road.
- ET Hotel, 83rd and 23rd/24th Street, ☎ 65996, 66547(?). Nice
and clean, free wi-fi (good connection!) tours and transport booking,
friendly staff. Cheapest rooms with shared bathroom and fan are on the
roof - single $10, double $15 (Aug 2012) Update (Oct 2012): single $20,
double $25 and triple $35. They said they didn't have any cheaper than
that, not even before. US$20.
-
Mid-range
- Mandalay Hill Resort, No.9, Kwin (416.B), 10th Street, [6]. An 8-storey hotel located at the foot of Mandalay Hill.
- Sedona Mandalay, No. 1, Junction of 26th & 66th Streets, [7]. A
Singaporean-owned hotel built blending traditional Burmese and modern
architecture that faces the Royal Palace and Mandalay Hill
Splurge
- Zegyo Hotel, 84th Street (Between 27th and 28th Streets, next to Zegyo market). Great location, clean rooms
-
Stay safe
Mandalay is a haven for drug kingpins and is a main trading centre of
illicit drugs. In 2005, an explosion occurred at Zegyo Market. That
being said, Mandalay is generally a very safe city.
Get out
- Amarapura - buses leave from the corner of 29th and 83rd regularly.
- Pyin U Lwin
- shared taxis come pick you up (6500 kyat back seat, 7000 front, 1.5
hours). Pickups leave from the corner of 27th and 82nd (1500 kyat, 2
hours)
- Mingun - boats leave from the Mingun jetty (all drivers know it) at 9am and return at 1pm. 5000 kyat return
- Hsipaw - Bus leaves at 6am and 2:30pm (5000 kyat), 5 hours.
- Yangon - Overnight buses at 7pm and 9pm (10,500 kyat), leaves from the Highway Bus Station, 10 hours.
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